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Legitimizing the Contemporary Kimono in the Era of Art Nouveau — An Analysis of Mitsukoshi’s Promotional Discourse

Saskia Thoelen

Published 2020 in Fashion Theory

ABSTRACT

Abstract Answering to a growing interest and demand for interdisciplinary research, this paper aims to present an approach to introduce the method of discourse analysis into the art, fashion and design historical field as a new method of inquiry. With the goal of providing a bridge, connecting concrete, concerning promotional development and legitimacy construction; this paper focuses on the legitimization of design as a part of the design globalization process that occurred during the Art Nouveau period. Mitsukoshi department store, Tokyo’s first and foremost trendsetter of the ‘contemporary kimono,’ functions as a case study for this research. The main research questions are: What discursive strategies did Mitsukoshi use to give sense to the promotion of the ‘contemporary kimono’ during the Art Nouveau period? How are these promotional strategies similar to or different from earlier kimono trend promotion, or transatlantic promotion of fashion trends and design during the same Art Nouveau period? Taking up the theoretical framework of legitimacy and sensegiving, this research aims to provide new interdisciplinary insights into the development of Mitsukoshi’s promotion of the ‘contemporary kimono’.

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