{"corpus_id":156631736,"paper_sha":"5c944e127872797878924fab4c4d5fb1e5c06f0c","doi":"10.2752/9781847883681","arxiv_id":null,"pmid":null,"pmcid":null,"mag_id":2498065103,"dblp_id":null,"acl_id":null,"title":"When Clothes Become Fashion","year":2009,"publication_date":"2009-08-01","venue":"","journal":{"name":"","pages":null,"volume":""},"journal_issn":null,"journal_title":null,"publication_types":[],"pubmed_pub_types":null,"s2_fields_of_study":["Art","Sociology"],"reference_count":0,"citation_count":53,"influential_citation_count":4,"is_open_access":false,"arxiv_categories":null,"arxiv_license":null,"arxiv_journal_ref":null,"mesh_headings":null,"chemicals":null,"comments_corrections":null,"source_flags":1,"s2_open_access_pdf_url":null,"s2_open_access_landing_url":null,"s2_open_access_license":null,"s2_open_access_status":null,"pmc_open_access_pdf_url":null,"pmc_open_access_landing_url":null,"pmc_open_access_license":null,"pmc_open_access_status":null,"unpaywall_open_access_pdf_url":null,"unpaywall_open_access_landing_url":null,"unpaywall_open_access_license":null,"unpaywall_open_access_status":null,"abstract":"<JATS1:p>When, how and why do clothes become fashion? Fashion is more than mere clothing. It is a moment of invention, a distillation of desire, a reflection of a zeitgeist. It is also a business relying on an intricate network of manufacture, marketing and retail. Fashion is both medium and message but it does not explain itself. It requires language and images for its global mediation. It develops from the prescience of the designer and is dependent on acceptance by observers and wearers alike. When Clothes Become Fashion explores the structures and strategies which underlie fashion innovation, how fashion is perceived and the point at which clothing is accepted or rejected as fashion. The book provides a clear theoretical framework for understanding the world of fashion - its aesthetic premises, plurality of styles, performative impulses, social qualities and economic conditions.</JATS1:p>","claims":[{"public_id":"cl_dd8db9f80ae88d84b009bdd041f33833","status":"active","text":"Fashion innovation is shaped by structures and strategies that govern how clothing is perceived and when it is accepted or rejected as fashion.","confidence":0.93,"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/claims/cl_dd8db9f80ae88d84b009bdd041f33833"},{"public_id":"cl_8bdf7eb1f4e1a7a509b88baa71294a9d","status":"active","text":"Fashion is understood through a theoretical framework centered on its aesthetic premises, plurality of styles, performative impulses, social qualities, and economic conditions.","confidence":0.94,"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/claims/cl_8bdf7eb1f4e1a7a509b88baa71294a9d"},{"public_id":"cl_0da5d2425d2cc1688c1bf5ec89c2b67a","status":"active","text":"Fashion requires language and images for global mediation.","confidence":0.9,"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/claims/cl_0da5d2425d2cc1688c1bf5ec89c2b67a"},{"public_id":"cl_97625c9b5ba892e44cd5a70d766d797c","status":"active","text":"The transition from clothing to fashion depends on designer prescience and on acceptance by observers and wearers.","confidence":0.91,"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/claims/cl_97625c9b5ba892e44cd5a70d766d797c"}],"concepts":[{"public_id":"co_1804581f92fd4687e3a36e1f7cca1aa2","status":"active","name":"designer prescience","description":"The designer's ability to anticipate emerging fashion possibilities.","types":["attribute"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_1804581f92fd4687e3a36e1f7cca1aa2"},{"public_id":"co_25ca890b929809ec1ce9cc7bc7e96f30","status":"active","name":"economic conditions","description":"The market and production conditions that shape fashion as a business.","types":["concept"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_25ca890b929809ec1ce9cc7bc7e96f30"},{"public_id":"co_2b6dd432c60d78e50feef793620cc1f7","status":"active","name":"plurality of styles","description":"The coexistence of multiple stylistic forms within fashion.","types":["concept"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_2b6dd432c60d78e50feef793620cc1f7"},{"public_id":"co_2f0b4e46af5eedfceb08f13de8480087","status":"active","name":"theoretical framework","description":"An organizing analytical structure used to understand fashion in this work.","types":["framework"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_2f0b4e46af5eedfceb08f13de8480087"},{"public_id":"co_3213eb57dfcb9545811194b18e0249be","status":"active","name":"performative impulses","description":"Action-oriented or expressive forces that shape how fashion is enacted and presented.","types":["concept"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_3213eb57dfcb9545811194b18e0249be"},{"public_id":"co_34b1b0a4ab9863e4dbf7675864fc2f95","status":"active","name":"social qualities","description":"The social dimensions and meanings associated with fashion.","types":["concept"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_34b1b0a4ab9863e4dbf7675864fc2f95"},{"public_id":"co_449ac25e3d5b7ecdf9f223647fe7e193","status":"active","name":"clothing","description":"Garments that may or may not be recognized as fashion.","types":["object"],"aliases":["clothes"],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_449ac25e3d5b7ecdf9f223647fe7e193"},{"public_id":"co_7cb37efb12e3f991f611ea3ee11c7f9d","status":"active","name":"fashion innovation","description":"The emergence of new fashion forms through design, perception, and acceptance processes.","types":["process"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_7cb37efb12e3f991f611ea3ee11c7f9d"},{"public_id":"co_c0d2d6b921d3a9d02102dbf4d599ed0e","status":"active","name":"language and images","description":"Modes of communication used to mediate fashion globally.","types":["communication media"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_c0d2d6b921d3a9d02102dbf4d599ed0e"},{"public_id":"co_c1186bc6fd1d324f0e3142e3f48ca4e2","status":"active","name":"accepted or rejected as fashion","description":"The outcome in which clothing is recognized as fashion or not.","types":["process","outcome"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_c1186bc6fd1d324f0e3142e3f48ca4e2"},{"public_id":"co_cca3d37569fb83764706512ecb0ceac6","status":"active","name":"aesthetic premises","description":"The aesthetic foundations or principles underlying fashion.","types":["concept"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_cca3d37569fb83764706512ecb0ceac6"},{"public_id":"co_e96405d6cf958882563176a0ab5740a1","status":"active","name":"fashion","description":"A cultural and economic phenomenon in which clothing is interpreted, circulated, and accepted as fashion.","types":["concept"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_e96405d6cf958882563176a0ab5740a1"},{"public_id":"co_f2ceba5441816b9e25cece0766139caa","status":"active","name":"global mediation","description":"The circulation and interpretation of fashion across global contexts.","types":["process"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_f2ceba5441816b9e25cece0766139caa"},{"public_id":"co_f93f106e6bf33b94e5eff0b0696f5b41","status":"active","name":"observers and wearers","description":"People who perceive, adopt, and validate clothing as fashion.","types":["group"],"aliases":[],"contributors":[{"id":1,"public_id":"12632b8b5f","public_label":"Anonymous (12632b8b5f)","roles":["extraction"],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/u/12632b8b5f"}],"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/concepts/co_f93f106e6bf33b94e5eff0b0696f5b41"}],"external_ids":{"DOI":"10.2752/9781847883681","ArXiv":null,"PubMed":null,"PubMedCentral":null,"MAG":2498065103,"DBLP":null,"ACL":null},"open_access":{"is_open_access":false,"pdf_url":null,"landing_url":"https://sah.borca.ai/papers/156631736","source":null,"pdf_url_source":null,"license":null,"reason":"pdf_url_not_indexed"},"reference_availability":{"status":"unknown","references_indexed":false,"full_text_available":false,"full_text_source":null,"count_basis":"semantic_scholar_metadata","extraction_status":"not_applicable","reason":null},"source":{"provider":"episteme2","base_corpus":"semantic_scholar_dump","freshness_mode":"unknown","basis":["semantic_scholar_metadata","postgres_metadata"],"limits":["paper metadata is based on indexed upstream scholarly datasets","claims and concepts are available only for extracted papers","absence of claims or concepts means no extracted graph data is available in this response"],"status":"available","degraded":false,"degraded_reasons":[],"diagnostics":{"status":"available","degraded":false,"degraded_reasons":[],"metadata_status":"available","graph_status":"available","abstract_status":"available"},"source_flags":1},"paper_id":631734,"paper_uid":"b92f87a4-4e6e-49b9-b7a2-06e2b4167014","canonical_identity":{"paper_id":631734,"paper_uid":"b92f87a4-4e6e-49b9-b7a2-06e2b4167014","identity_status":"available","lookup_basis":"semantic_scholar_external_id","compatibility_path":"corpus_id"},"url":"https://sah.borca.ai/papers/156631736"}